14 days in Montenegro
Imagine standing atop ancient city walls as the Adriatic Sea sparkles below, while rugged mountains pierce clouds in the distance. In Montenegro, such contrasts aren't just photo opportunities – they're daily occurrences. This compact Balkan gem packs the drama of Norway's fjords, the charm of Croatian coastal towns, and the raw wilderness of the Alps into a country smaller than Wales.
Montenegro (Црна Гора/Crna Gora – literally "Black Mountain") punches far above its weight in natural and cultural riches. Home to 620,000 people, this young nation bears the imprints of Venetian, Ottoman, and Yugoslav heritage, creating a fascinating cultural mosaic that's still authentically Montenegrin at its core.
Key Statistics:
- Population: 620,000
- Language: Montenegrin (similar to Serbian)
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Size: 13,812 km²
- Capital: Podgorica
- Time Zone: CET (UTC+1)
Best Time to Visit:
May-June or September-October offer ideal conditions: warm temperatures (20-25°C), fewer crowds, and lower prices than peak season. July-August brings hot weather (30-35°C) and crowded coastal areas, while winter (November-March) is perfect for skiing but limits coastal activities.
Visa Requirements:
EU citizens can enter visa-free for 90 days. US, UK, and Canadian citizens also enjoy visa-free entry for up to 90 days. Always check current requirements before traveling.
Trip Planning Essentials
Getting There:
- Podgorica Airport (TGD): Main international gateway
- Tivat Airport (TIV): Convenient for coastal areas
- Dubrovnik Airport (DBV): Popular alternative in Croatia
- Belgrade Airport (BEG): Good connection options
Getting Around:
- Rental Car: Best for flexibility, approximately €30-50/day
- Intercity Buses: Reliable network, €5-15 per journey
- Trains: Limited but scenic (Bar-Belgrade route)
- Taxis: Affordable in cities (€0.70/km)
Weather Considerations:
- Coast: Mediterranean climate (mild winters, hot summers)
- Mountains: Alpine climate (snow December-March)
- Rainfall: Heaviest October-November
- Summer storms: Brief but intense
Daily Budget Expectations:
- Budget: €40-60
- Mid-range: €100-150
- Luxury: €200+
Language Essentials:
- "Hvala" - Thank you
- "Molim" - Please
- "Dobar dan" - Good day
- "Gdje je..." - Where is...
Mobile/Internet:
- Local SIM cards available at airports (€10-15)
- Wide 4G coverage in towns
- Free WiFi common in cafes
- Mountain areas may have limited connectivity
Health and Safety:
- EU Health Insurance Card accepted
- Private clinics in major cities
- Safe drinking water
- Low crime rate
- Mountain rescue: +382 40 256 084
Pre-Trip Planning
Logistics
Booking Timeline:
- Flights: 3-4 months ahead
- Hotels (peak season): 2-3 months ahead
- Car rental: 1-2 months ahead
- Restaurant reservations: 1 week ahead
Accommodation Overview:
Budget:
- Hostels: €15-25/night
- Guesthouses: €25-40/night
Mid-range:
- Boutique hotels: €70-120/night
- Apartments: €50-80/night
Luxury:
- 5-star hotels: €200+/night
- Private villas: €300+/night
Essential Apps:
- Maps.me (offline navigation)
- Booking.com (accommodations)
- ViaMichelin (driving routes)
- Google Translate
- XE Currency
- Balkan Viator (tours)
Must-Book in Advance:
- Durmitor National Park tours (peak season)
- Kotor Old Town hotels
- Sveti Stefan restaurant reservations
- Lake Skadar boat tours
- Blue Cave excursions
Trip Customization
Seasonal Variations:
Summer (June-August):
- Focus on coastal activities
- Early morning sightseeing
- Evening cultural events
- Mountain hiking
Winter (December-March):
- Skiing in Kolašin
- Hot springs visits
- Cultural museums
- Winter festivals
Spring/Autumn:
- Ideal hiking weather
- Wine tasting
- Cultural tours
- Photography trips
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival and Kotor Bay
Morning:
- Arrival at Tivat Airport
- Transfer to Kotor (30 minutes)
- Check-in at hotel
- Morning walk around Old Town walls (€8)
Afternoon:
- Guided tour of Kotor's UNESCO Old Town
- St. Tryphon's Cathedral (€2)
- Maritime Museum (€4)
Evening:
- Sunset dinner at Galion Restaurant
- Night photography of illuminated walls
Transport: Airport taxi (€20) or pre-arranged transfer
Costs: €100-150 including meals
Photo op: City walls viewpoint
Day 2: Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks
Morning:
- Early breakfast at hotel
- Bus to Perast (€2, 20 minutes)
- Explore Baroque palaces along waterfront
- Boat to Our Lady of the Rocks (€5)
- Visit church and museum (€4)
Afternoon:
- Lunch at Hotel Conte's waterfront restaurant
- Walking tour of Perast's 16 churches
- Visit Maritime Museum (€4)
- Optional: Swimming at public beach
Evening:
- Sunset dinner at Konoba Skolji
- Night photography of illuminated islands
Transport: Local Blue Line bus or taxi (€15)
Costs: €80-100 including meals
Photo op: Islands from Perast waterfront
Local Tip: Visit before 11am to avoid tour groups
Day 3: Lovćen National Park
Morning:
- Early start to Lovćen (rental car recommended)
- Drive serpentine road to Njeguši village
- Traditional breakfast at local smokehouse
- Ham and cheese tasting (€10)
Afternoon:
- Drive to Lovćen National Park (€2 entry)
- Hike to Njegoš Mausoleum (€5)
- 461 steps to panoramic viewpoint
- Picnic lunch with coastal views
Evening:
- Return to Kotor
- Traditional dinner at Tanjga
- Walking digest ion around town walls
Transport: Rental car or organized tour (€45)
Costs: €70-90 including meals
Photo op: 360° view from mausoleum
Cultural Note: Dress respectfully for mausoleum visit
Day 4: Budva and Sveti Stefan
Morning:
- Drive to Budva (30 minutes)
- Explore Old Town fortifications
- Visit Citadela (€3)
- Shopping in local markets
Afternoon:
- Beach time at Mogren Beach
- Walk to Sveti Stefan viewpoint
- Professional photo stop
- Optional: Beach club access (€50)
Evening:
- Sunset dinner at Nobu Sveti Stefan
- Night walk along Budva promenade
- Cocktails at Top Hill (in season)
Transport: Rental car or bus (€4)
Costs: €150-200 including meals
Photo op: Sveti Stefan island at sunset
Budget Alert: Save by dining in Budva instead of Sveti Stefan
Day 5: Lake Skadar National Park
Morning:
- Drive to Virpazar (1 hour)
- Morning boat tour (€25, 3 hours)
- Birdwatching and monastery visits
- Swimming in clean lake waters
Afternoon:
- Wine tasting at Plantaže (€15)
- Visit local fishermen's village
- Learn about lake ecology
- Optional: Kayaking tour (€30)
Evening:
- Fresh fish dinner at Konoba Badanj
- Sunset over lake wetlands
- Return to coastal base
Transport: Rental car or organized tour (€60)
Costs: €100-130 including meals
Photo op: Birds and lilies on morning lake tour
Hidden Gem: Ask to visit a family winery in Godinje village
Day 6: Durmitor National Park (Base: Žabljak)
Morning:
- Early drive to Žabljak (3 hours)
- Check into mountain accommodation
- Visit Black Lake (€3 entry)
- Easy hiking trail circuit (2 hours)
Afternoon:
- Jeep safari to glacial lakes (€40)
- Visit shepherd's village
- Cheese tasting experience
- Mountain flora photography
Evening:
- Traditional mountain dinner
- Star gazing session
- Overnight in Žabljak
Transport: Rental car or organized tour (€80)
Costs: €120-150 including meals
Photo op: Black Lake reflections
Time-Saver: Book jeep safari in advance
Day 7: Tara River Canyon
Morning:
- Đurđevića Tara Bridge visit
- Zip line across canyon (€20)
- Canyon viewpoint photos
- Short hiking trails
Afternoon:
- Rafting expedition (€60, 3 hours)
- Visit monastery Dobrilovina
- Traditional mountain lunch
- Optional: Mountain biking
Evening:
- Eco-lodge dinner experience
- Local folklore performance
- Second night in Žabljak
Transport: Rental car/included in rafting
Costs: €140-170 including meals
Photo op: Bridge from canyon bottom
Safety Note: Only book rafting with licensed operators
Day 8: Biogradska Gora National Park
Morning:
- Drive to Biogradska Gora (1.5 hours)
- Lake walking trail (1 hour)
- Virgin forest exploration
- Picnic by lake
Afternoon:
- Hiking to Bendovac viewpoint
- Visit traditional katun (mountain hut)
- Meet local shepherds
- Sample mountain tea
Evening:
- Return to Kolašin
- Dinner at Savardak
- Traditional music night
Transport: Rental car or guide (€50)
Costs: €90-120 including meals
Photo op: Lake reflections in morning light
Local Insight: Buy local honey from mountain villages
Day 9: Ostrog Monastery
Morning:
- Early drive to Ostrog (2 hours)
- Monastery visit (free)
- Upper and lower monasteries
- Join morning prayers
Afternoon:
- Lunch in Nikšić
- Visit local brewery
- Traditional market
- Optional: Local museum
Evening:
- Drive to Herceg Novi
- Seaside dinner
- Evening promenade
Transport: Rental car or day tour (€45)
Costs: €80-100 including meals
Photo op: Monastery in cliff face
Cultural Note: Dress code strictly enforced
Day 10: Bay of Kotor Beaches
Morning:
- Blue Cave boat tour (€25)
- Swimming and snorkeling
- Visit submarine tunnels
- Beach hop by boat
Afternoon:
- Lunch at beach restaurant
- Visit Mamula island
- Swimming at Blue Grotto
- Optional: Scuba diving (€60)
Evening:
- Seafood dinner in Herceg Novi
- Sunset walk on promenade
- Local wine tasting
Transport: Organized boat tour
Costs: €100-150 including meals
Photo op: Blue Cave waters
Skip the Line: Book first morning boat
Day 11: Cetinje and Montenegro's Royal Heritage
Morning:
- Drive to Cetinje (1 hour from coast)
- Guided tour of King Nikola's Palace (€5)
- Visit Cetinje Monastery (free)
- State Museum complex (€5)
Afternoon:
- Walking tour of diplomatic buildings
- Visit Biljarda (Njegoš Museum, €3)
- Art gallery in former embassy
- Traditional craft workshops
Evening:
- Dinner at Kod Pera na Bukovicu
- Local folklore performance (seasonal)
- Drive back to coastal base
Transport: Rental car or guided tour (€40)
Costs: €70-90 including meals
Photo op: Royal palace interior
Local Insight: Visit the Money Museum to see rare Montenegrin coins
Cultural Note: The former capital Cetinje offers the deepest dive into Montenegrin identity. The small city was once home to embassies from all major European powers, and their architectural legacy creates an unexpected elegance.
Day 12: Podgorica and Modern Montenegro
Morning:
- Drive to Podgorica (1 hour)
- Visit Millennium Bridge
- Stara Varoš Ottoman quarter
- Clock Tower and Ribnica fortress
Afternoon:
- Contemporary Art Center (free)
- Shopping at Delta City mall
- Wine tasting at Plantaže wine shop
- Podgorica Cathedral
Evening:
- Craft beer at Podgorica Pivara
- Dinner at Pod Volat
- Nightlife in Bokeška Street
Transport: Rental car or train (€3)
Costs: €80-100 including meals
Photo op: Millennium Bridge at sunset
Hidden Gem: Try "krempita" at Kod Vuka bakery
Local Tip: While Podgorica isn't Montenegro's most tourist-focused city, it offers authentic urban Montenegrin life. The confluence of its rivers provides pleasant walking paths and gathering spots where you'll see how locals live.
Day 13: Porto Montenegro and Coastal Luxury
Morning:
- Drive to Tivat (30 minutes)
- Porto Montenegro marina walk
- Naval Heritage Museum (€5)
- Luxury yacht spotting
- Designer shopping
Afternoon:
- Lunch at Al Posto Giusto
- Solila Nature Reserve
- Bird watching trail
- Optional: Sailing trip (€100)
Evening:
- Sunset drinks at Platinum rooftop
- Fine dining at Murano Restaurant
- Night walk along marina
Transport: Rental car or local bus (€2)
Costs: €150-200 including meals
Photo op: Superyachts at golden hour
Budget Alert: Save by having lunch at local konoba instead of marina restaurants
Time-Saver Tip: Reserve dinner in advance during high season, especially for premium restaurants around Porto Montenegro.
Day 14: Final Bay of Kotor Treasures
Morning:
- Return to Kotor
- Local market shopping
- Last-minute souvenirs
- Cats Museum (€1)
Afternoon:
- Choose your favorite:
- Return to preferred beach
- Final hiking trail
- Spa treatment
- Cooking class (€40)
Evening:
- Farewell dinner at Galion
- Sunset from city walls
- Final promenade walk
Transport: Depends on chosen activities
Costs: €100-150 including meals
Photo op: Final sunset over the bay
Local Insight: Best local souvenirs include:
- Njeguši prosciutto (vacuum-packed)
- Local wine (Vranac)
- Olive oil from Bar region
- Traditional wool items
- Local honey
- Handmade soaps
Practical Details
Navigation
Key Areas in Detail:
Coastal Region:
- Kotor: Medieval walled city, UNESCO site
- Old Town: Pedestrian only
- Walking maps available at info center (€2)
- Water taxis to Perast (€15)
- Budva: Beach resort town
- Modern marina area
- Historic old town
- Bus station centrally located
- Bar: Port city
- New and old sections
- Ferry connections to Italy
- Train station for Belgrade route
Central Region:
- Podgorica: Capital city
- Grid layout in center
- Riverside walking paths
- Main transport hub
- Cetinje: Historic capital
- Walkable historic center
- Museum quarter
- Mountain road connections
Mountain Region:
- Durmitor: National park
- Žabljak visitor center
- Marked hiking trails
- Winter ski infrastructure
- Kolašin: Mountain resort
- Ski center
- Biogradska Gora access
- Railway station
Public Transportation Details:
Intercity Buses:
- Main routes and frequencies:
- Podgorica-Budva: Hourly (€6)
- Budva-Kotor: Every 30 min (€4)
- Podgorica-Kolašin: 4x daily (€8)
- Coastal Express: 2x daily (€12)
- Buying tickets:
- Purchase day before for morning departures
- Small fee for luggage (€1-2)
- Student discounts available
- Tips:
- First row seats best for mountain routes
- Air conditioning varies by bus
- Some routes require changes
Local Buses:
- Kotor Bay Blue Line:
- Hourly service
- Kotor-Perast-Herceg Novi
- €1-3 per journey
- Budva local lines:
- Beach hopper service (summer)
- Old Town to Bečići
- €1.50 flat fare
Taxi Services:
- Official rates:
- Start: €1
- Per km: €0.70
- Waiting: €10/hour
- Key companies:
- Red Taxi (Podgorica)
- Blue Taxi (Budva)
- White Taxi (Kotor)
- Safety tips:
- Use marked taxis
- Agree price before long journeys
- Ask hotel for reliable numbers
Digital Navigation:
- Google Maps: Works well in cities
- Maps.me: Better for hiking trails
- Moovit: Public transport routes
- What3words: Useful for remote locations
Local Experiences Worth Splurging On:
- Private boat tour of Bay of Kotor (€200)
- Helicopter tour of coastline (€300)
- Private wine tasting with vineyard owner (€100)
- Custom photography tour (€150)
- Chef's table at Nobu Sveti Stefan (€200)
Food Journey
Must-Try Dishes in Detail:
Meat Specialties:
- Njeguški pršut
- Dry-cured ham from Njeguši village
- Best served with local cheese
- Try at: Kod Pera (Njeguši), €10/portion
- Čevapi
- Grilled meat rolls
- Served with flatbread and onions
- Best at: Pod Volat (Podgorica), €6-8
Seafood:
- Black risotto
- Cuttlefish ink risotto
- Fresh seafood
- Try at: Konoba Škaljari (Kotor), €15
- Buzara
- Mussels in wine sauce
- Local specialty
- Best at: Konoba Dobrotski Dvori, €12
Traditional Dishes:
- Punjene paprike
- Stuffed peppers
- Seasonal availability
- Try at: Gardens of Babylon (Budva), €8
- Kačamak
- Potato and cheese polenta
- Mountain specialty
- Best at: Kolašin Etno Selo, €7
Street Food & Snacks:
- Priganice
- Fried dough with honey
- Breakfast favorite
- Try at: Any local bakery, €2
- Burek
- Meat or cheese pastry
- Morning specialty
- Best at: Pekarstvo Kraljevski Burek, €3
Wine and Beverages:
Local Wines:
- Vranac
- Full-bodied red
- Plantaže producer
- Tours available: €15
- Krstač
- Indigenous white grape
- Crisp, mineral
- Tasting at Šipčanik: €10
Traditional Drinks:
- Rakija
- Fruit brandy
- Multiple varieties
- Try at: Konoba Balkanske Priče, €3
- Mountain tea
- Herb-based
- Health benefits
- Available everywhere: €2
Restaurant Recommendations:
Budget-Friendly (€10-15 per person):
- Tanjga (Kotor)
- Local grill
- Huge portions
- Must try: Mixed meat plate
- Konoba Rendez Vous (Budva)
- Family-run
- Daily specials
- Best: Seafood soup
Mid-Range (€20-30 per person):
- Restaurant Galion (Kotor)
- Bay views
- Fresh seafood
- Specialty: Black risotto
- Konoba Catovica Mlini (Morinj)
- Historic mill setting
- Traditional cuisine
- Best: Locally-caught fish
Fine Dining (€50+ per person):
- Nobu (Sveti Stefan)
- Japanese fusion
- Reservation required
- Signature: Black cod
- Forest Restaurant (Kolašin)
- Mountain cuisine
- Local ingredients
- Best: Tasting menu
Food Experiences:
Cooking Classes:
- Traditional Cooking School (Kotor)
- 3-hour class
- Market visit
- €45 per person
- Mountain Cuisine Workshop (Žabljak)
- Full day
- Foraging included
- €65 per person
Food Tours:
- Kotor Gourmet Tour
- 4 hours
- 6 tastings
- €50 per person
- Wine Country Experience
- Full day
- 3 wineries
- €85 per person
Departure Notes
Airport Transfers:
- To Tivat: 30 minutes (€20)
- To Podgorica: 90 minutes (€40)
- To Dubrovnik: 120 minutes (€80)
Last-Day Tips:
- Allow extra time for border crossing if flying from Dubrovnik
- Keep small euro notes for final purchases
- Most shops accept cards but traditional markets are cash only
- Reserve airport transfer in advance
- Check flight status the night before
Packing Regional Products:
- Liquid restrictions apply to wines and oils
- Prosciutto must be vacuum-sealed
- Keep receipts for high-value items
- Check current customs regulations
Final Shopping Guide
Best Value Souvenirs:
- Local Markets:
- Fresh produce and dried herbs
- Traditional handicrafts
- Local cheese and honey
- Specialty Shops:
- Wine shops in Podgorica
- Antique shops in Kotor
- Art galleries in Cetinje
- Designer outlets in Porto Montenegro
Where to Find What:
- Food Products: Green markets in each town
- Wine: Plantaže shops or local producers
- Crafts: Old town boutiques
- Luxury Items: Porto Montenegro
- Traditional Items: Kotor Old Town
Remember: Bargaining is not common in Montenegro except in some tourist markets. Prices are generally fixed in shops.
Cultural Insights
Local Customs In-Depth:
Greetings & Social Etiquette:
- "Dobar dan" (Good day) until sunset
- "Dobro veče" (Good evening) after sunset
- Three kisses on cheeks between friends
- Handshakes firm and maintained
- Direct eye contact appreciated
- First names after formal introduction
Home Visits:
- Remove shoes (slippers often provided)
- Bring a small gift (wine, coffee, sweets)
- Accept offered coffee/rakija
- Compliment the home
- Expect multiple food offerings
- Stay at least 30 minutes
Religious Etiquette:
- Monastery dress code:
- Women: covered shoulders and knees
- Men: long trousers
- Scarves available to borrow
- Photography rules vary
- Respect prayer times
- Donations appreciated but not required
- Some monasteries require advance notice
Dining Customs:
- Tipping: 10% standard
- Wait for host to begin
- Toast with "Živjeli!"
- Coffee drinking is social ritual
- Lunch is main meal
- Dining is rarely rushed
Festival Calendar:
Spring (March-May):
- Mimosa Festival (Herceg Novi, March)
- Flower celebration
- Carnival atmosphere
- Local food fair
- Easter Celebrations
- Orthodox calendar
- Traditional foods
- Church services
Summer (June-August):
- Kotor Art Festival
- Classical music
- Theater performances
- Street artists
- Sea Dance Festival (Budva)
- International DJs
- Beach parties
- Modern music
Autumn (September-November):
- Wine & Food Festival (Budva)
- Local producers
- Tastings
- Cooking demos
- Masliniada (Bar)
- Olive harvest
- Traditional music
- Local products
Winter (December-February):
- Christmas Markets
- Both Dec 25 & Jan 7
- Craft stalls
- Local foods
- Mimoza Festival (February)
- Flower parades
- Cultural events
- Local celebrations
Social Norms:
Business Culture:
- Meetings start with coffee
- Relationships matter
- Punctuality appreciated but flexible
- Business cards exchanged
- Smart casual dress acceptable
Public Behavior:
- Modest dress in towns
- Beach attire only at beach
- Public affection minimal
- Smoking common
- Volume levels often high
- Photography generally welcomed
Flexibility Factors
Detailed Rainy Day Alternatives:
Cultural Sites:
- Maritime Museum, Kotor
- Three floors of exhibits
- Naval history
- €6 entrance
- Guided tours available
- National Museum, Cetinje
- Royal artifacts
- State history
- €5 combined ticket
- 2-3 hour visit
Indoor Activities:
- Wine Tasting at Plantaže
- Underground tunnels
- 5 wines minimum
- €15 basic tour
- Book in advance
- Cooking Classes
- Various locations
- 3-4 hours
- €40-60 per person
- Market visits included
Wellness Options:
- Spa Treatments
- Hotel Splendid (Budva)
- Regent Porto Montenegro
- From €50 per treatment
- Advance booking essential
- Traditional Hammams
- Turkish bath experience
- Massage available
- €30-70 packages
- Cultural experience
Seasonal Activity Swaps:
Summer Alternatives:
- Early morning hiking
- Late afternoon sightseeing
- Indoor lunch periods
- Evening boat trips
- Beach time adjustments
Winter Options:
- Skiing in Kolašin
- Indoor cultural sites
- Hot springs visits
- Traditional restaurants
- Workshop participation
Extended Stay Options:
Coast Extensions:
- Island hopping
- Diving courses
- Sailing lessons
- Language classes
- Photography tours
Mountain Add-ons:
- Multi-day hikes
- Farm stays
- Wildlife watching
- Foraging trips
- Mountain biking
Themed Variations:
Adventure Focus:
- Climbing
- Canyoning
- Mountain biking
- Paragliding
- White water rafting
Cultural Immersion:
- Language classes
- Craft workshops
- Home cooking
- Village stays
- Festival participation
Wellness Journey:
- Yoga retreats
- Meditation centers
- Thermal spas
- Hiking therapy
- Healthy cuisine
Emergency Plans:
Weather Issues:
- Indoor attraction list
- Transport alternatives
- Accommodation backup
- Activity refund policies
- Emergency contacts
Health Services:
- Private clinics list
- 24/7 pharmacies
- Emergency numbers
- Insurance procedures
- Medical translations
This completes the practical details, cultural insights, and flexibility sections with comprehensive information for travelers. Would you like me to expand on any particular aspect or add more specific recommendations for any category?
Money-Saving Tips:
- Buy burek for breakfast (€1-2)
- Use local buses between cities
- Visit monasteries during free hours
- Stay in private apartments
- Eat main meal at lunch
- Buy produce at markets
- Use free walking tours
- Hike self-guided trails
Photography Tips:
- Kotor walls: Early morning light
- Sveti Stefan: Sunset from public beach
- Durmitor: Early morning mist
- Ostrog: Late afternoon glow
- Bay panorama: Mount Lovćen summit
- Lake Skadar: Morning bird activity
- Blue Cave: Mid-day sun rays
Final Tips:
- Download offline maps
- Learn basic phrases
- Carry cash for small towns
- Respect religious sites
- Book high season in advance
- Allow flexibility in schedule
- Make dinner reservations
- Check seasonal road conditions
Remember, Montenegro rewards those who linger. While this itinerary covers the highlights, don't hesitate to spend extra time in places that capture your heart. The country's genuine hospitality and stunning landscapes have a way of turning first-time visitors into lifelong admirers.
Hidden Gem: For a truly local experience, ask about "domestic restaurants" (domači restoran) where families serve traditional meals in their homes.